This short hike is packed with way more good stuff than I anticipated. It follows the Rio en Medio up to a secluded waterfall. The forest here feels old, maybe because of the giant Ponderosas, some of which are fallen and decaying. The river makes everything lush – in the lower areas some mystery plant fills the air with the scent of licorice. Right from the start we give up on dry feet, which turns out to be a good decision for the several crossings and final approach to the falls. Here the canyon becomes a rocky box. A strange tree with four distinct trunks stands guard before the falls. On a hot day it would be hard to leave this little water-cooled haven.

On our way down Ann stops and I see a bear cub on the trail ahead turn tail and run. His shaggy, light brown behind quickly disappears around a bend. We’re extra noisy for a while in case Mama is still around.