Early in the morning I cheerfully strip down to cross Kerrick Creek. Halfway across the bottom drops out and I’m swimming in icy cold water. Pete follows suit while I howl, shiver, and dress.

Our early optimism for the day is challenged by miles of deep sun cups over Dorothy Pass and out of Yosemite National Park. Hours of sloshing and staggering are punctuated by a lunch of wild onions and a few short glacades.