Ann and I did our (and my) most adventurous route yet this weekend: The route is highlighted with a dot between each pitch. The trees are so big that you don’t get a correct sense of scale – the end of the first pitch is about 180 feet up! Because of the 10 mile approach…

‘I’m moving and not moving at all. I’m like the moon underneath the waves that ever go on rolling and rocking. It is not, “I am doing this,” but rahter, an inner realization that “this is happening through me,” or “it is doing this for me.” The consciousness of self is the greatest hindrance to…

Of course Ann & I didn’t go to Tahquitz as we planned (it was snowing there I’m sure), but Ann was eager Sunday morning to climb something. So we headed to Big Rock again in drizzling rain, hoping for the best. It turned out to be perfect there, cool with brief spots of warm bright…

The day I started bouldering, a little over a year ago now, I squared off against this problem. It’s a slightly overhanging crack that is wide and flaring near the bottom, then narrows at shoulder height so there are only a few key spots my fingers will fit in. That first day I couldn’t get…

I never want to call it a day when I’m at Joshua Tree. The fatigue of climbing seems to take longer to set in there. I was jealous of this climber rappeling off of the Hauser Buttress while I was packing up to go – he got the last move that time. When the air…

Lots of things are blooming at Joshua Tree NP now and it’s pretty amazing just to walk around there. Ann & I warmed up at Quail Springs on the Poubelle (Trashcan Rock) on Tip Toe (5.7) and a few of the easy cracks there. We watch a little girl climb Tip Toe after we put…

The past few days of climbing have underlined for me the impact of mental space on climbing experience. First, I’ve been more relaxed and confident than ever, and it seems like instantly my climbing improved. How did I get there? I’ve read books that stress the importance of a positive internal dialogue, but I’m sure…

Nice weather at the Gorge this weekend! Not too hot, but warm enough for pleasant camping at the pinons. My friend Steve from Joshua Tree was up for leading some harder climbs, so I had the chance to sample some good stuff on TR, like Bone Up (10d), Hung Over (11b), and Be Prepared to…

It might not seem too Hobo-like at first consideration, but I have found rock climbing to be an ideal hobo activity. I can’t think of a better way to really appreciate the places where one travels. You get outside, often to the most picturesque spots, cast your cares aside and throw yourself into a demanding…

Johnnie and Patrick from Tehachapi were out again today. We did a quick problem in front, Johnnie effortlessly sailed up Walters crack. Then Greg took us to the back, straight to the problem on the little loaf that spanked me mercilessly twice before. You get a left foot high on an edge tucked under a…