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Last Move of the Day
I never want to call it a day when I’m at Joshua Tree. The fatigue of climbing seems to take longer to set in there. I was jealous of this climber rappeling off of the Hauser Buttress while I was packing up to go – he got the last move that time. When the air…
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Joshua Tree in the Spring
Lots of things are blooming at Joshua Tree NP now and it’s pretty amazing just to walk around there. Ann & I warmed up at Quail Springs on the Poubelle (Trashcan Rock) on Tip Toe (5.7) and a few of the easy cracks there. We watch a little girl climb Tip Toe after we put…
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poisoned?
This weekend Ann and I hiked a 6-mile section of abandoned highway 38 along its previous route into the San Gorgonio mountains. It was surprisingly pretty, but even more surprising was that on a beautiful day, 30 minutes from major Inland Empire population centers, we encountered no one. No mountain bikers, no hikers, no trail…
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The Zone
The past few days of climbing have underlined for me the impact of mental space on climbing experience. First, I’ve been more relaxed and confident than ever, and it seems like instantly my climbing improved. How did I get there? I’ve read books that stress the importance of a positive internal dialogue, but I’m sure…
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Owens River Gorge Weekend
Nice weather at the Gorge this weekend! Not too hot, but warm enough for pleasant camping at the pinons. My friend Steve from Joshua Tree was up for leading some harder climbs, so I had the chance to sample some good stuff on TR, like Bone Up (10d), Hung Over (11b), and Be Prepared to…
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Hobos climb rocks?
It might not seem too Hobo-like at first consideration, but I have found rock climbing to be an ideal hobo activity. I can’t think of a better way to really appreciate the places where one travels. You get outside, often to the most picturesque spots, cast your cares aside and throw yourself into a demanding…
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Wagon Wheel
Johnnie and Patrick from Tehachapi were out again today. We did a quick problem in front, Johnnie effortlessly sailed up Walters crack. Then Greg took us to the back, straight to the problem on the little loaf that spanked me mercilessly twice before. You get a left foot high on an edge tucked under a…
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Wagon Wheel
Went with greg to the area north of the front where we were Sunday morning. Got that flake problem right off, then came very close on a slopey pull to the left of that. A couple east facing problems made me happy, especially one where you match hands on a knife-edge flake, get your toes…
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Wagon Wheel
Slept out again, this time managed to get up early. Did some of the same problems I hit with Rich on Friday so Ted could nail them. Rich got the funny dish problem this time, and pulled on that crazy sloper finger hold again. Me and Ted are nowhere close to getting that one. We…
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Wagon Wheel
Found Greg and Barry on the hilltop, playing on the Mohawk rock. I did the easier sidepull-right move to warm up, then tried to follow greg again on the left route. Couldn’t quite do it without some extra help standing on the right foot – this from a knobby right hand. Once up I can…